CarRepairMaintenance

general notes

• do not use the car for long trips if the transmission has delayed or hard shift symptoms

civic

• 1998 honda civic
• vtec
• sohc (single overhead cam)
• p6fd6 engine which is d16y8 with less emission control components.

radiator hoses

• the rubber cap of bleeder pipe can be the first to rupture before the hoses so be sure to keep an extra one and clamp in the emergency kit
• before long trips inspect the hoses and replace if needed
• bring gorilla tape for emergency hose repairs

tools

• gorilla tape
• flat head screw driver for clamps
• phillips screw driver for clamps
• long nose screw driver for clamps
• extra bleeder pipe cap and clamp
• extra upper and lower hos

removal

• drain radiator
• remove the intake air module so you have easy access to higher end of lower hose.
• the lower end of the lower hose should be accessed from underneath the car. you need to remove only the left side fasteners of the splash guard

thermostat

troubleshooting

• at cold start, both radiator hoses should be very different in temperature. upper hose gets hot quickly while lower hose stays cold. If the lower hose gets warm immediately, the thermostat is likely stuck open (not a critical problem but bad for the engine long term).
• if lower hose stays cold even if engine already very hot, or if the temperature gauge goes too high even if there is enough coolant and radiator fan is working, the thermostat is stuck closed.
• the thermostat connects to the LOWER radiator hose. if you have no spare, temporarily remove the middle part of the thermostat but reinstall the housing with gasket because they are needed to prevent leaks.

tools

• 10mm closed
• 10mm socket
• 2 extenders

removal

• remove the intake air module so you have easy access
• remove the 4 bolts (10mm) (the upper left bolt which connects to a ground wire is shorter than the other 3)

installation:

• seat the gasket around the thermostat
• make sure the small loose/jiggle pin (air bleeder pin) is at 12 o'clock and the 2 nubs beside it seats properly in the corresponding notches of the thermostat housing
• just lightly tighten the bolts. do not over tighten.

alternator belt

• 4pk800
• not critical:
  • power steering belt: 4pk840
  • ac compressor belt: 4pk830

tools

• 12mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 14mm closed
• 2 extenders for adjusting compressor belt tension
• cheater pipe

removal

• disconnect negative battery terminal
• remove upper and lower power steering bracket bolts (12mm)
• remove power steering ground (10mm)
• remove ground bolt wire and set aside
• remove power steering belt
• pull up power steering pump and set aside making reservoir is upright to avoid fluid spill
• losen 14mm upper pulley bolt using closed wrench and cheater pipe
• loosen 10mm tensioner bolt just enough to set aside the compressor belt to allow room for alternator belt to come out. (you need to remove the compressor bracket bolt to replace the compressor belt but it's not needed to replace just the alternator belt)
• you can now replace alternator belt

installation

• installation is reverse of removal
• drive belt tension should be such that full twist is 90 degree turn
• pry the power steering bracket with jack rod while tightening tensioner bolt

alternator

• all 3 thin wires now labeled
  • top/left, formerly red-white is always 12v even if engine is off. this is the voltage sense (S) terminal
  • middle, formerly black-yellow is ignition switch wire, important for alternator to work
  • bottom/right, formerly blue-white is for dashboard light

the curve of the connector is to your right

tools

• spare 3-pin connector
• 2 extenders for electrical connector nut
• 14mm deep socket or your swivel extender for middle bolt of bracket
• 10mm socket for electrical connector nut
• 14mm socket (for swivel brackets)
• 12mm socket n 12mm closed wrench alkwentro for thin swivel bolt (workaround for misaligned holes on new alternator)
• long flat head screw driver and hammer to remove the metal bushing in swivel bracket if new alternator already has one, and to break off stuck electrical connector
• pry bar for tightening tension or losening stuck adjusting bolt. you can use the scissor jack rod.
• spare connector with wires (i already extended the wires so its easy to replace the connector from above the engine).

removal

• disconnect negative battery terminal
• remove 10mm nut of wire harness bracket above alternator
• remove tension adjusting bolt
• detach belt
• remove swivel bolt 12mm socket and 12mm closed alkwentro. (14mm bolt if original backup alternator)
• remove alternator from swivel bracket
• remove swivel bracket so alternator has space to go out from under. 2 bolts 14mm socket. for driver side bolt use deep socket or your short swivel extender.
• position alternator for better access to removing wirings and connectors (10mm nut of thick wire). when losening or tightening the 10mm nut you need to push down hard because the plastic insulator prevents the nut from inserting properly into the socket.
• if connector is stuck just break it off the plastic with long flat head screw driver and hammer
• remove alternator from under. it can only go in and out with the pully directly facing you and imaginary line between 2 bolt holes slanted 45 degrees to your right

installation

• common mistakes:
  • installing bracket before inserting alternator
  • not loosening the tensioner bracket bolt which makes it impossible for the tensioner bolt to go in its hole
• remove the metal bushing in swivel bracket if new alternator already has one
• tap the bushing of the new alternator inward so it is flat level with the outer hole.
• after alternator goes in turn it so that adjusting bolt hole is on top and swivel bolt holes are at the bottom
• install bracket
• insert swivel bolt and tighten w 12mm on both ends (alkwentro) ok to use thicker swivel bolt on old spare alternator
• install wirings
• loosen tensioner bracket bolt (14mm socket) so that you can twist it a little and see the tensioner bolt go in the hole
• hand tighten the tensioner bolt
• tighten the tensioner bracket bolt
• pry with jack rod to tighten tension as you tighten tensioner bolt.
• inspect belt tension make sure you can only twist it 90 degrees.

starter

• before replacing, jump with your backup battery.
• if it still won't start, short battery (B) terminal (thick wire)of solenoid to (S) terminal (small connector/thin wire) on solenoid using a screw driver. you need to disconnect this first by pulling it out. both terminals are on the solenoid. (the motor (M) terminal (10mm nut) is also on the solenoid and connects to body of the motor with a thick wire but you ignore that). no need to remove anything. make sure the key is in the engine ON position and stick a big flat head screw driver between the male S terminal and connector housing (driver side because it's nearer to protruding B terminal) and lean the screw driver towards the back of the car)

tools

• 10mm socket for air intake housings
• 12mm socket for terminal nut
• 14mm socket for starter bolts
• 8mm socket for motor bolts if 14mm bolts cant loosen.
• long extender
• cheater pipe
• pb blaster
• light

removal

• disconnect negative battery terminal
• remove air intake housing and tube using 10mm socket
• disconnect the battery (B) terminal (12mm) and the starter (S) terminal (just pull it out).
• there are only 2 mounting bolts, each 14mm: lower left and upper right corner. set aside the wiring so you can clearly see the upper left 14mm bolt.
• you might be tempted to just replace the motor because it looks easier but its actually very difficult to insert the lower mounting bolt (8mm).
• if you do need to replace just the motor, remove the entire assembly first so it's easy to install the lower mounting bolt.
• if the 14mm mounting bolts are seized, spray pb blaster and use the cheater pipe.
• last resort is replace only the motor with the assembly in place. the hole for the 8mm lower mounting bolt is just to the left of a phillips screw. feel the hole with your fingers and practice installing the bolt without the motor first. you cant screw it by hand. use 8mm wrench but always test with a super light torque to make sure it is seated properly to avoid loss thread.

installation

• installation is reverse of removal
• when putting back the air filter housing, feel the housing and tube with your hands then push hard towards the back of the car then push down. you can also use a flash light to see and make sure it is properly seated

fuel pump relay

tools

• 10mm socket
• extender
• short phillips screw driver
• flat head screw driver for prying

removal

• disconnect negative battery terminal
• remove glove box by removing 2 phillips screw/8mm bolts at the bottom
• remove small front panel by removing 1 phillips screw then just pulling it out by prying with a flat head (retained by 2 tabs)
• remove side panel by removing 1 phillips screw then just pulling out by prying with a flat head (retained by 4 tabs)
• pull out connector
• remove relay (10mm socket long extender)

fuel pump

tools

• 10mm socket
• phillips screwdriver
• flat head screwdriver

removal and installation

• it's straightforward. just remove the backseat by pulling up the back edge (no bolts or screws needed)

ignition coil

• needs to be replaced often, especially when engine gets too hot
• P1,400 at kapitan

tools

• short phillips screw driver

removal

• remove distributor cover (3 screws)
• remove the 2 wires. make sure the front wire is labaled "front" so you know which wire goes where when you install
• remove the rubber cover of the side bolt holding the ignition coil then remove the bolt
• remove the bottom bolt holding the ignition coil

installation

• make sure the gasket is properly seated

non-stranding

fuel system

• during PMS (preventive maintenance schedule) the quickest way to test if a component is working is to disconnect the wiring. if the check engine light eomes on or something bad happens or becomes worse then it's working and if nothing happens then it's probably not working.
  • do this step on:
    • iat (intake air temperature) sensor
    • map sensor
    • tps sensor
    • iacv (now only for air con idle up because headlight is led and cooling fans are now direct to battery (with own fuse and relay)).
    • ect (engine coolant temperature sensor) probably not so useful because the cooling fans always turn on (the engine temperature gauge sensor is beneath the distributor)
    • ckp/tdc/cyp sensor: no need to inspect during PMS because symptoms are very severe so if nothing is obviously wrong then it should be good
• bad fuel pressure regulator symptoms:
  • Hard Starting: The engine requires extra cranking time to turn over because the system loses pressure while the car is turned off.
  • Black Exhaust Smoke: Excess fuel enters the cylinders and burns incompletely, creating dark smoke from the tailpipe due to a rich fuel mixture.
  • Fuel in the Vacuum Hose: Pulling the small rubber vacuum line off a vacuum-controlled regulator reveals raw gasoline, meaning the internal diaphragm has ruptured.
  • Rough Idle or Misfires: Inconsistent fuel delivery causes the engine to stumble, vibrate, or misfire at a stop.
  • Poor Fuel Economy: A stuck-open valve floods the engine with unneeded gas, worsening your gas mileage.
  • Check Engine Light: The computer triggers rich or lean codes like P0171 or P0172 when it cannot correct the air-fuel ratio.
• bad map sensor symptoms:
  • Check Engine Light: The dashboard light turns on, often storing diagnostic trouble codes like P0105 through P0109 or P0106 (Range/Performance).
  • Rough Idling: The engine shakes, stumbles, or has fluctuating RPMs while stopped.
  • Poor Fuel Economy: The car uses more gas than normal because the computer defaults to a rich fuel mixture.
  • Sluggish Acceleration: The vehicle hesitates, loses power, or feels weak when you press the gas pedal.
  • Engine Stalling or Misfires: The car may stall out after starting or misfire due to an incorrect air-to-fuel balance.
  • Black Exhaust Smoke: Excess unburnt fuel passes through the exhaust system.Hard Starting: The engine cranks for a long time or fails to start up cleanly
• bad intake air temperature sensor symptoms:
  • Check Engine Light: The engine computer (ECU) detects faulty signals or error codes (such as P0113) and lights up the dashboard warning.
  • Hard Starting: The car struggles to start, especially in cold weather, because the computer miscalculates the required fuel.
  • Rough Idling or Stalling: The engine revs bounce up and down, or the car stumbles and stalls when coming to a stop.
  • Poor Acceleration and Hesitation: Stepping on the gas pedal results in sluggish response or hesitation due to an improper fuel ratio.
  • Reduced Fuel Economy: The computer may think the air is freezing cold and inject extra fuel, causing the engine to run rich and burn more gas.
  • Engine Misfires: Incorrect fuel delivery causes the cylinders to misfire, making the engine shake or stutter during acceleration.
• bad idle air control valve symptom: fluctuating rpm on idel
• symptoms of bad throttle position sensor:
  • Check Engine Light: The car's computer detects a bad voltage signal and turns on the warning light with codes like P0120 through P0123.
  • Rough Idling: The engine RPMs bounce up and down or run unevenly when you are stopped.
  • Acceleration Hesitation: The car stumbles, jerks, or delays when you press the gas pedal.
  • Sudden Surges: The vehicle unexpectedly speeds up or loses power while driving at a steady speed.
  • Poor Fuel Economy: Incorrect air-fuel mixtures cause the engine to burn more gas than normal.
  • Hard Shifting: Automatic transmissions shift too late or jerk because they rely on correct throttle data.
  • Engine Stalling: The car unexpectedly dies when you come to a stop or slow down.
• bad ckp/tdc/cyp sensor symptoms:
  • Engine Stalling: The vehicle may shut off suddenly while driving or idling without warning as the ECU loses the timing signal. This often happens after the engine warms up, as internal sensor wire insulation degrades with heat.
  • Crank, No Start: The engine will spin normally when you turn the key, but it will not catch or fire up because the ECU cannot determine when to send spark or open the fuel injectors.
  • Severe Hesitation and Jerking: During acceleration, the engine may sputter, drop power, or stumble violently due to erratic ignition timing.
  • Engine Misfires and Rough Idle: The car may shake or vibrate excessively at a stop light because the cylinders are firing out of correct sequence.
  • Erratic Tachometer: The RPM needle on your dashboard may fluctuate wildly, jump up and down erratically, or drop straight to zero even while the car is still moving.
• bad ect (engine coolant temperature) sensor symptoms:

bleeding coolant

• no need for bleeding kit. just make sure the car is parked slightly uphill.
• leave the car running for 30 minutes until there are no more tiny bubbles and the coolant level stops going down.

removing civic door panel

• remove inner door opener cover by removing screw then prying with a flat head towards the front of the car. push out clip and swivel outward then pull down the cover
• remove door handle cover by prying outward
• disconnect power window connector
• remove 2 screws
• optional: remove power window switch unit by prying towards the front of the car

pry the entire door panel outward then lift up

sentra

• 1993 nissan sentra
• b13
• ga14
• carburetor
  • the 3 solenoids on the carburetor are inactive because there is no ECU
  • so the only pms for fuel system is to inspect vacuum advancer
• no need to bring mechanical fuel pump because it usually gives warning signs that it's going bad.
  • warning signs are:
    • hesitation when going uphill or accelerating fast
    • fuel leak which causes strong fuel odor in the engine bay

alternator belt

• the longer belt is the one for alternator

tools

• 12mm rachet
• 14mm rachet

removal

• loosen the locking bolt on the swivel (12mm rachet)
• loosen the tension adjuster bolt until the belt can be loose enough to be dislodged from the pulley (12mm rachet)
• from under the car (no need to jack up), losen the nut for the compressor belt tensioner pulley (14mm)
• loosen the adjusting bolt (14mm) until the belt can be loose enough to be disloodged from the pulley
• you can now remove and replace the alternator belt

alternator

tools

• 14mm rachet
• 12mm rachet
• 10mm rachet
• pliers (for losening the radiator drain plug) or removing hose clamps
• flat head screw driver (for removing hose clamps and prying out electrical connector)
• phillips screw driver (for removing hose clamps)
• planggana (pan for catching coolant)

removal

• remove radiator drain plug to drain coolant into planggana
• remove the upper radiator hose and pull out the reservoir tank
• remove the big power supply wire (12mm)
• remove the ground wire (10mm)
• remove the locking bolt on the swivel (12mm)
• loosen the tension adjuster bolt until the belt can be loose enough to be dislodged from the pulley (12mm)
• remove 2 bottom bolts (14mm rachet). for passenger side bolt insert left hand where reservoir should be between radiator and wire harness and position the rachet wrench in a horizontal position so you have more swivel room
• losen swivel bracket bolt and lift the bracket to give space for the alternator to be removed
• remove the alternator pulley facing down and bracket holes in diagonal position so that it fits between the rediator and engine
• discoonect electrical connector by pressing down the clip then prying out the connector with flat head screw driver

installation =

• install all bolts but do not tighten yet. do bottom 14mm bolts, then tensioner bracket, then tensioner locking bolt then tensioner adjusting bolt
• install belt. to seat the belt on the bottom most pulley work from under the car and use left hand
• adust tensioner bolt until the most you can twist the belt is 90 degrees
• tighten all other bolts
• connect and tighten all electricals

clutch cable

• if the clutch pedal has no pressure and sticks to the floor, replace the the clutch cable. it's only P500 (~$10). so even if the clutch cable is not the culprit, it's still a good idea to replace it because it's CHEAP and it's something that will eventually stretch or break.
• you can drive home if short distance by turning off the engine so that you can change to first gear. turn on the engine while still in first gear (which means the car will kiyod-kiyod when it starts). if you need to stop, hit the brakes then turn off the engine. 

tools

• 10mm open
• tape

removal

• loosen the 10mm locking nut then loosen the big flower nut by hand until the cable is loose enough to be dislodged from the fork. also dislodge the cable from the midpoint rubber clamp by simply pulling it out.
• place your hands OUTSIDE and OVER the housing/bracket (instead of inside). to remove it, just feel the cable clevis and pedal teeth then used your fingers to pull the clevis towards you then upward. 

installation

• reverse of removal.
• first, hook the clevis to the pedal teeth. this becomes much easier if you wrap some tape around the clevis and cable so that the clevis stays ERECT and can't dangle down.

then insert it in the firewall housing. then just slide your hands outside and over the clutch pedal housing/bracket and FEEL the clevis and teeth. then use your pointer and middle finger to grab the clevis and hook it to the pedal teeth.

• ADJUST the flower nut until the free PLAY on the clutch is around .5 to 1 inch. then lock it by tightening the 10mm nut.

starter

• no need to replace while on the road just push start or try shorting the big positive wire and thin wire welded to the solenoid housing using a screw driver.

tools

• 14mm closed (not rachet)
• 14mm socket
• 12mm rachet
• 10mm open
• 10mm socket
• extender

removal

• remove battery
• remove air filter housing (2 10mm socket with extender)
• remove air intake duct bolt (10mm socket with extender) and set aside (the holding bracket easily bends)
• disconnect big positive wire (10mm rachet)
• disconnect connector (just press the clip and it should come off easy)
• remove upper bolt (14mm closed to loosen then socket to easily remove by hand)
• remove lower bolt (14mm socket and extender)

installation

• use the 14mm socket to align and insert the bolt by hand

the wiring for backup starter is temporary just insert the end of the wire in the connector

• install the bolt (and ground wire) for the intake duct first before puttting back the battery

headlight bulb

removal

• remove connector
• remove rubber cover
• remove spring clip wire
• remove bulb

installation

• seat the bulb on the 3 notches
• squeeze the clip then seat the bottom part in the notch of the housing, lean the clip against the bulb and just let go

carburetor tuning

• remove air filter housing
• if carburetor is dirty clean carburetor with 2 second burst sprays on air intake and linkages while engine is running
• if car starts quickly no need to adjust autochoke. else:

while engine is cold loosen 3 screws and adjust so flap is almost closed.

• connect autochoke wires to battery and make sure flap opens in 5 minutes
• fully turn clockwise the vacuum break stopper (smaller screw no spring) to prevent choke flap from closing completely.
• finger tighten fully (turn inward) the small metal mixture adjusting screw or fuel amount screw (spring loaded) beneath the big plastic screw. this lessens fuel intake amount (lean mixture). then turn counterclockwise (outward) 3 full turns to increase fuel intake (rich mixture)
• step on the gas pedal to make sure the autochoke closes then turn engine on and while cold or autochoke is still closed immediately adjust cold start screw or fast idle screw (spring loaded above plastic normal idle screw) so the idle rpm is ~1200
• if there is hesitation or engine dies when you quickly step on gas pedal then keep turning the cold start screw clockwise half a turn until hesitation goes away
• once the automatic choke fully opens, the fast idle screw loses contact with the cam, becomes completely insignificant, and the normal idle speed screw takes over. adjust the idle speed screw (big plastic screw) so the rpm is ~700.
• if there is hesitation or engine dies when you quickly step on gas pedal then keep turning the normal idle speed screw clockwise half a turn until hesitation goes away

signs mixture is too rich

• Black exhaust smoke: Excess fuel fails to burn completely in the cylinder and exits as soot.
• Fouled spark plugs: Plugs turn black, dry, and sooty, which can cause misfires.
• Rough or stumbling idle: The engine idles poorly, "blubbers," drops RPMs too fast, or stalls.
• Poor fuel economy: You will use much more gas than normal because the efficiency drops.
• Strong fuel odor: A heavy smell of raw gasoline comes from the tailpipe.Sluggish performance: The engine may feel heavy or lack crisp throttle response.
• an engine RPM dip or near-stall immediately following a quick throttle blip can indicate an overly rich air-fuel mixture, resulting in what is mechanically known as a "rich stumble" or "rich bog". When you quickly tap and release the gas pedal, the throttle plate snaps open and closed. If the fuel system injects too much fuel during this brief window—or if the engine cannot burn the sudden rush of fuel as the air source is abruptly cut off—the combustion chambers briefly flood. This chokes the engine, dragging the RPMs well below your target idle speed before the electronic control unit (ECU) or carburetor can recover. However, an identical symptom can also be caused by a lean condition or mechanical lag.
  • How to Distinguish Rich vs. Lean Dips:
    • To accurately diagnose the root cause, pay attention to the exact behavior and sound of the engine during and right after the blip:
    • Rich Mixture Clues: The engine will sound heavy, muffled, or "gargly" as it drops. The RPMs will plunge rapidly below idle and may slowly struggle or surge back up. You may smell unburnt fuel from the exhaust or see black smoke.
    • Lean Mixture Clues: The engine will make a hollow, gasping sound (like hitting a kill switch) right when you hit the pedal. A lean condition often causes a "hanging idle", where the RPMs stay high or drop very slowly before suddenly undershooting and threatening to stall. You may also hear popping in the intake.
• if mixture too rich, turn idle mixture screw clockwise (inward) to make it leaner

signs mixture too lean

• Backfiring or Popping: A lean mixture burns slowly, meaning combustion can still be active when the intake valve opens, causing a loud pop or backfire through the carburetor or exhaust.
• Hanging or Slow Idle: After revving the engine, the RPMs take a long time to drop back down to a normal idle speed.
• Weak or Rough Idle: The engine idles poorly, sounds weak, and may spit, sputter, or stumble.
• Hesitation and Stalling: When you press the gas pedal or twist the throttle, the engine hesitates, stumbles, or dies instead of accelerating smoothly.
• Runs Better on Choke: As users on Reddit agree, the engine runs much better or smoother with the choke partially closed, but dies or sputters when the choke is fully opened once the engine is warm.
• Physical Signs & Inspection:
  • White Spark Plugs: If you pull the spark plugs, the porcelain insulator near the center electrode will look chalky, clean, or stark white instead of a healthy light tan/brown.
  • Overheating: Because a lean mixture burns slower, the prolonged exposure to flame increases combustion chamber temperatures, leading the engine to run hot.
  • Reduced Power: The engine lacks standard power output and feels weak under load.
• if mixture too lean, turn idle mixture screw counterclockwise (outward) to make it richer

How to Tell if the Setting is Wrong (The Turn Count Rule)

• Under 1 to 1.5 Turns Out: If peak idle and smoothness happen when the screw is barely turned out from being lightly seated, your pilot jet is too large (too rich) and should be stepped down.
• Over 3 Turns Out: If you have to back the screw out past 3 turns to reach peak performance, your pilot jet is too small (too lean) and needs to be stepped up

COMMON

Common Signs of Bad Valve Clearance

• valve clearance too loose:
  • • Ticking or Clicking Noise: Loose valves create a fast tapping sound from the engine top.
• valve clearance too tight:
  • Rough Idling: Tight valves prevent proper closing, causing a bumpy or shaking idle when stopped.
    • engine shakes when cold during idle but problem goes away when warm
    • Engine Misfires: Extreme tightness can burn valves, leading to a loss of power and misfire codes.
• Mileage Interval: Reaching 30,000 to 60,000 miles on vehicles with solid lifters (very common on older or specific brands like Honda).

How to Check and Adjust

• Cool the Engine: Always work on a cold engine (usually under 100°F / 38°C) to get accurate metal gaps.
• Remove Cover: Take off the valve cover to see the rocker arms and valves.
• Find Top Dead Center (TDC): Turn the crankshaft pulley until the target piston reaches TDC on its compression stroke.
• Measure the Gap: Slide a Feeler Gauge between the valve stem and rocker arm to check the clearance.
• Adjust: Loosen the locknut and turn the screw until the gauge has a slight, snug drag, then tighten the nut back

maintenance

every registration:

• change oil/filter and have pcv valve inspected
• inspect/replace air filter
• clean carburetor (sentra) throttle body (civic). for sentra just spray cleaner to the top of carburetor with engine running and revving it (pulling throttle cable)
• z3: clean maf sensor with crc maf sensor cleaner then reset ecu by shorting battery terminals with 1ohm 10watt resistor for 15 minutes
• pour entire 12oz bottle of chevron techron on near empty (1/4) gas tank before filling up with gas
• use ph test strips (the one for cars not the one from aquarium store) and test ph of coolant and flush-bleed if needed
• brush battery terminals with 1tbsp baking soda to 1 cup water then coat with petroleum jelly

every 5 years (next is july 2031)

• replace timing belt and water pump (civic only)
• replace fuel filter
• replace spark plugs
• change transmission fluid dw-1 honda specific ATF
• change differential fluid (z3 only)
• change power steering fluid on reservoir using turkey baster to remove fluid
• inspect and adjust valve clearance on civic (sentra and z3 uses hydraulic lifters)
• brake fluid. simply bleed each wheel until you re-fill capacity/4 (usually 1liter/4 = 250ml)